The printer specific configuration files that we need as a starting point - they used to be in this config folder of the Marlin repository - but they have been moved to another location - another github repository.
Inside of this second repository - once you unzipped it to a different folder on your computer - you will find the configuration files that you're looking for. Copy all files from this folder into the Marlin folder that is located inside the Marlin repository. Make sure you confirm to overwrite all existing files. In the previous guides to flash Marlin firmware, I have used the Arduino IDE for compiling and flashing Marlin firmware and this is still possible but the recommended way for the future is to use Visual Studio Code with PlatformIO, which I will show you in this video.
So, let's first make sure to install visual studio code from www. Make sure you don't accidently select the full blown visualstudio for pc or visualstudio for mac if you're a mac user. Visual Studio Code is the thing that we need and that works. After installing visual studio code, you need to launch it for the first time and open the extensions tab on the left hand side of the window. Now, click the "Install" button and wait until the installation process is finished.
Don't launch any other installation at the same time and make sure, you don't close visual studio code until it's done installing. There might be a message saying "Please restart VSCode" after the installation. If you see this, please close Visual Studio Code and launch it again.
After the installation is finished, click on the extensions tab of visual studio code again and search for the extension "auto build marlin". Now, we are ready to do the final touches to our Marlin configuration before we will upload it to the mainboard. First, open the Marlin folder in visual studio code by clicking the folder icon in the left menu bar and then clicking "Open Folder". Navigate to the folder, where you have unzipped the Marlin files into, don't navgate further into any subfolder there and click "select folder" to open it.
Now, you can already test, if everything is set up correctly and your're able to build the firmware. Go to the left menu bar again and click the large "M" button. Frame brace for Anet 3D Prusa i3 printer by Simhopp.
Anet A8 Hold Down Bracket by freemark. Anet A8 extruder carriage beltholder 4 holes by Sjouke. Anet A8 extruder carriage beltholder 6 holes by Sjouke. Anet A8 Improved Y-belt Tensioner by freemark. Anet A8 Improved X-belt Tensioner by freemark. Y belt tensioner Prusa i3 Zonestar P by groyer Belt tensioning modification for Anet, hesine, senhai a8 m omni printer by Simhopp. Remixed Y axis belt tightener for A8, A6 by Radem.
Anet A8 Y-belt tensionerby YoshiCat. Y belt attachment for Anet A8-B printer by frol. Y-axis rework for Anet A8 by matsekberg. Anet A8 circular fan duct by Sjouke. Cooling fan replacement blades by CreativeTools. Solidoodle 40mm fan repair by kj6epl. Prusa i3 circular fan with inductive sensor support by Mcknight.
Prusa i3 circular fan with 18mm inductive sensor support by redder Anet A8 Original fan duct. Ultimate Spool Adapter Fastswitch Filament by vidschofelix. Extruder Button Anet A8 by dryas. Flexible material guide for Geeetech MK8 by ghugues. Anet A8 Bowden Extruder Mount by mkantor. Advanced Setup. Video Guides. Wiring Info. EZBoard Lite V1. EZBoard V2. EZNeo Lighting Kits. Dual Z Kits. LCD Screens. Power Supplies. All Other Products.
Creality Boards. MKS Boards. This might be the coolest thing about the Anet A8 for me — when you first build it, you have a low-end 3D printer, but you can actually upgrade it to a pretty decent machine by simply using it to print out upgrades for itself.
I find the notion of the machine improving itself pretty pleasing. Anyhow, here are some of the upgrades I printed for my Anet A8 that I can recommend to anyone:. Upgrading the fan duct had an immediate improvement on the quality of my 3D prints. Had I known what I do now, it would have been one of my first prints.
Unfortunately, it is a pretty challenging object to print it requires supports, among other things. But try it soon. Getting my filament spool attached to my Anet A8 was a top priority.
I recommend both — they really improved the ergonomics of the printer. This is a feature that came with the higher-end Lulzbot mini we own that I wanted on my A8. It confines the movement of the wiring harness for the extruder to simple push-pull motions and protects the wiring. It looks really snazzy once completed. These are just my favorite parts I gathered off of Thingiverse. There are hundreds of parts on that site though. Anet A8 Build Log with Pictures The printer came with a digital manual that can be accessed on the SD card that comes packaged with it.
Basics: Screws and nuts are bagged in neatly-labeled baggies. I recommend keeping them bagged and only pulling them out as needed. The screws are attached to blind nuts which are held in position by slots in the wooden frame.
When assembling, I recommend first inserting the nut into the slot, then pushing the screw through the hole and screwing. Doing it in this order greatly speeded up my build. Go figure, I screwed up the first step. My top plate is facing the wrong way , which would have made the display upside down. See Step 23 for how it is supposed to look.
One of the parts was not drilled, drilled it myself using the other mating part as a template. The self tapping screws are used to secure the switch. They tap into the wood. I never got them to tighten much but they were secure. Not sure if motor connector is mounted in correct direction in picture. No comment. Make sure you have the washers installed in the right order! You can pre-thread most of the nuts on the rod before actually putting the rods into the assembly.
After installing these rods, you should play with the position of the nuts from step 6 until there is no play whatsoever in the rods.
They should be held up tight against their retaining caps. Note — the belt guide at the bottom of the above picture is facing the wrong way. It is fixed in step 9 below. The screws are much too long for the parts they are securing — this is intended. Once the bed plate is attached to the rods, you should once against test your alignment by sliding it back and forth.
It should slide smoothly with no binding or extra pressure on one side or the other. Binding indicates some misalignment from step 6. Get the belt as tight as you possibly can by hand.
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